the truth about skin care companies

Written By Maggie Wallace

In my decade as an esthetician, I have worked hands on with dozens of lines. From ‘top of line’ only sold at medical establishments , to lines that are more accessible at salons and spas. In this journey, I have developed an extremely critical eye of all skin care, and have learned that once you look past the packaging, the name brands, the promises, all that matters are ingredients, and you know what I have come to believe? That so many products are really just…’fluf’. Filler and fluf! and sometimes really, really bad chemicals. Chemicals that are endocrine disrupters (Parabens, phthalates, oxybenzone, triclosan, BPAs/BHTs, Homosalates, octinoxate, avobenzones), Known carcinogens (Formaldehyde), Non-Biodegradable (Silicone) Cancer causing additives that can have asbestos (Talc), and harsh preservatives (Chloride). All this isn’t to stress you out, but to say- You don’t need it. All these lines do is promise you things that they can’t deliver, while actively hurting you.

When I worked at a dermatology clinic, it drove me crazy how quickly they prescribed harsh chemicals to treat skin, without asking; “What is your diet? How much caffeine do you drink? How are your hormones? How are your stress levels? How much diary do you consume? Skin works from within, and addressing these internal causes can often eliminate the root cause of your skins problems, without putting a band-aid over them that might end up hurting you more in the long run.

All this isn’t in pursuit of selling you on something, but simply to spread awareness that a lot of your skin care can begin in the kitchen. You might wonder if it is as effective? Can I get the results I want? The answer is YES! All the mass produced skin care lines do is mimic what nature gave us, in a form that is shelf stable and affordable for them to produce! Here are examples of expensive/cosmetic ingredients that are literally just (or almost exactly) kitchen/pantry staples in disguise.

  • Hyaluronic acid (the #1 “it” ingredient in $100+ serums) → Your body already makes it, and fermented foods like soy sauce, natto, or even bone broth are rich natural sources. Topically? A simple DIY gel from boiled linseed/flaxseeds or marsh-mallow root tea gives you plant-based HA-like polysaccharides that hold 500–1000× their weight in water.

  • Niacinamide (in every “pore-minimizing” serum) → Plain vitamin B3. Found in turkey, chicken, tuna, mushrooms, and green peas. Many people see the same brightening/calming effects from eating more B3-rich foods or using a simple diluted nutritional-yeast mask.

  • Squalane (the “luxury” moisturizing ingredient in Biossance, The Ordinary, etc.) → Identical to olive-derived squalane or sugarcane squalane. Literally just extra-virgin olive oil left to sit overnight in the fridge—the clear layer on top is almost pure squalane (brands just hydrogenate it for longer shelf life).

  • Lactic acid (the gentle AHA in all those pricey “milk peels” and exfoliants) → Comes from milk, yogurt, kefir, or fermented veggies (sauerkraut juice). A thin layer of plain Greek yogurt left on for 10 minutes gives you the same gentle exfoliation as a $80 lactic-acid toner.

  • Ceramides (the “barrier-repair” heroes in CeraVe, Drunk Elephant, SkinCeuticals) → Found in eggs, dairy, wheat germ, rice, and sweet potatoes. Eating them + using oats (which contain ceramide precursors) topically rebuilds the barrier just as well.

  • Vitamin C serums (15–20 % L-ascorbic acid, $50–$200) → Fresh lemon juice, kakadu plum powder, camu camu, or rosehip seed oil all deliver high-dose natural ascorbic acid + bioflavonoids (often more stable than synthetic versions).

  • Salicylic acid (the “acne-clearing” BHA) → Naturally occurs in willow bark, wintergreen leaves, and birch bark. A simple willow-bark tea toner works the same way (just slower release).

  • Centella asiatica / madecassoside / asiaticoside (the “cica” calming trend in Korean skincare) → Literally gotu kola leaves from your garden or Asian grocery. Steep them in hot water and use as a splash or compress.

  • Glycolic acid (the “glow-giving” AHA) → Straight-up sugarcane juice or crushed raw sugarcane.

  • Retinol alternatives like bakuchiol → Found in culinary psoralea seeds (babchi); people in India have used babchi oil on skin for centuries

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I believe we are all starting to open our eyes to lack of care these large companies have in us and our health, and I want to give you the power to know, you can have beautiful, healthy, glowing skin without participating in their charade. My facials are made fresh, from scratch, using over 35 ingredients that are always, always organic. We will focus on how we can use nature to achieve the skin you want, and how our herbal allies can accompany us on that journey.

Recommendations:

Top Independent Product-Scanning Apps & Databases (2025)

  • Yuka (free mobile app) Scan any cosmetic or food barcode → instantly tells you if it contains endocrine disruptors, carcinogens, irritants, etc. Rates products out of 100 and suggests cleaner alternatives. Huge European database (millions of products) and growing fast in the US/Canada. Super user-friendly and 100 % independent (no brand ads). https://yuka.io/en/

  • EWG Skin Deep Database (free website + app) The gold standard in the US. Rates 200,000+ products on a 1–10 hazard scale with detailed ingredient breakdowns. https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/

Sources:

On Harmful Chemicals & Endocrine Disruptors in Skincare

  • Cosmetics as endocrine disruptors: are they a health risk? (2015) – Comprehensive review confirming parabens, phthalates, triclosan, oxybenzone, and UV filters like homosalate/octinoxate/avobenzone act as EDCs via skin absorption. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26825071/

  • Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals in Cosmetics (2020) – Discusses the same common EDCs (parabens, phthalates, benzophenones, triclosan, BPA/BHT) and their links to hormone-related issues. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32186657/

  • Analytical methods for the determination of endocrine disrupting chemicals in cosmetics (2021) – Lists parabens, phthalates, oxybenzone, triclosan, etc., as routinely detected EDCs in personal care products. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34364451/

On Formaldehyde/Releasers (Carcinogenic)

On Talc & Asbestos Contamination

  • Perineal Talc Use and Ovarian Cancer: A Critical Review (2008, updated evidence continues) – Meta-analysis showing ~30% increased ovarian cancer risk with genital talc use, especially historically asbestos-contaminated talc. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3621109/

On Silicones (Dimethicone etc.) Being Non-Biodegradable

Gut-Skin Axis & Internal Factors (Diet, Hormones, Stress) Influencing Skin

Natural Products Proven to Work

Key Databases & Tools to Check Any Brand/Product

  • EWG Skin Deep Database (rates ~200,000+ products on a 1–10 hazard scale; search any brand here): https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ → Often scores mainstream/drugstore lines (e.g., many Neutrogena, L'Oréal, Maybelline, Olay, Aveeno, Johnson & Johnson products) moderately high (5–10) due to fragrance, parabens, oxybenzone, retinyl palmitate, etc. High-end like some Estée Lauder or Clinique items also flag for similar reasons.

  • Made Safe Banned/Restricted List (screens for 6,500+ harmful chemicals; certifies safe alternatives): https://madesafe.org/pages/banned-restricted-list

Specific Reports Calling Out Problematic Products/Trends

Common "offenders" that repeatedly score poorly in these sources (as of 2025):

  • Drugstore sunscreens (e.g., many Neutrogena, Coppertone, Banana Boat) → oxybenzone, homosalate, PFAS.

  • Fragranced lines (e.g., Victoria's Secret, Bath & Body Works, many L'Oréal/Maybelline) → hidden phthalates.

  • Some "natural-ish" brands like Burt's Bees or Aveeno (certain products) → still use concerning preservatives/fragrance.

  • Brazilian Blowout/other keratin treatments → formaldehyde releasers (banned in many places

Maggie Wallace
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